![]() ![]() Unless they are already growing in your area, it’s probably best not to introduce them. That doesn’t completely rule them out in my mind but it is a consideration.” “These are not natives and have potential to become weeds. I used to have a dwarf powderpuff tree in my yard which would freeze and come back. I hadn’t thought about that one as a coppice, but I do love them. The regrowth rates are astonishing.Ĭalliandra is an interesting choice. I’ve seen them done as pollards but I’ll bet coppicing works well too. Gliricidia and Leucaena are both awesome for cutting and regrowing. (Oh no! I gave away my location! J)”Īs for “giving away your location,” when you have roughly 100,000 people following you online and have received threats related to your family, it’s nice being off the map – or at least not easily found. I’m in a dry tropics area of northern Australia. “I have been doing some research into firewood trees that can be coppiced and suit my region. If a tree is a weak softwood, it’s less valuable as a coppice tree, unless you’re just using it as a chop-and-drop, like I do with moringa trees.Ī lot of the culture and practice of coppicing has been lost over the years. Good coppicing species are those which don’t bleed too much sap, have the ability to regrow, and have value for feeding animals, using for tools or firewood, etc. Diseases rarely have time to take hold of the young growth and weather elements do not affect trees of short stature so they live much longer than their unpruned counterparts.”īasically, you are cutting a tree down to the ground at the right time of the year in order to have it regrow and continually supply you with wood. What makes these methods so appealing is that by keeping the tree in a perpetual juvenile state, they actually extend the life of the tree by hundreds or sometimes even thousands of years. but its historical use of a wooded pasture system also fits into a permaculture method very well - stacking functions to get more yield out of one area. ![]() Today, it is a technique that can be used in very urban environments to prevent trees from invading utilities or sewers. Pollarding (from the word “poll,” which originally meant “top of head”) has been used since the Middle Ages - in fact, there are still stands of continuously pollarded trees that date to that time. By working on a rotation we are assured of a crop somewhere in the woodland every year. A properly coppiced woodland, harvested in rotational sections called coups, has trees and understory in every stage and is a highly effective method to grow a fast supply of naturally renewing timber. “Coppicing a tree produces multiple stems growing out of the main trunk - suitable for firewood, fencing, tool handles, and many more woodland crafts. Midwest Permaculture has a good article on the topic, writing: ![]() “ Are you aware of any specific things to be looking for in a tree type that indicates it’s suitability for coppicing?” ![]() I am not a coppicing expert but I have picked up some good ideas over the years. I’m just interested planting a couple of (small) trees in my yard to try it out. There’s no urgency or importance on this. In the absence of information based on trials and experience, can anything be found in descriptions of trees that indicate suitability for cropping? I have considered using a native Lilly Pilly (Syzygium) but can’t find any information on their suitability for firewood and coppicing. That doesn’t completely rule them out in my mind but it is a consideration. These are not natives and have potential to become weeds. (Oh no! I gave away my location! J) I think that the following may be suitable: I have been doing some research into firewood trees that can be coppiced and suit my region. “Are you aware of any specific things to be looking for in a tree type that indicates it’s suitability for coppicing? Peter asks about identifying good coppicing trees: ![]()
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